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Beating the odds: Showcasing jewellery’s finest in Vegas

READ THE FULL ARTICLE IN RETAIL JEWELLER’S JULY 2025 ISSUE

Marked by high footfall, energetic buyers and a broad showcase of trends, JCK Las Vegas proved the jewellery industry’s resilience during turbulent times, says May Garland

With the ding of slot machines echoing throughout the halls of the Venetian Expo, and the unmistakable buzz of buyers and exhibitors filling the air, JCK Las Vegas – held from 6 to 9 June – and sister show Luxury proved that even against a backdrop of global economic strain, tariffs and rising gold prices, the jewellery industry remains steadfast and optimistic.

“This show continues to be a must attend for all in the jewellery trade, but it is the can’t-wait-to-attend feeling that extends that magic,” says Sarin Bachmann, senior vice president of event organiser RX’s jewellery portfolio.

30,000 industry professionals joined JCK and Luxury

17,000+ buyers, decisionmakers, store owners, media and more

Global challenges didn’t deter Jay Ladwa, director of Anupam Jewellers in Ashford, who continues to see strong value in the show from an international business perspective.

“We have been attending the JCK show for the last four years and will continue to do so, as the choice is far greater and we are always learning and speaking to industry colleagues, gaining valuable insights. The last two years, we have had the confidence to do more international trade and have been looking at other markets in order to grow and stay ahead on trends,” he said. “Tariffs have had a huge impact on our strategy and we have found it beneficial to look at the Indian markets for jewellery. I feel UK retailers will enjoy greater choice, competitive pricing and higher quality sourcing opportunities. This was evident at JCK 2025. We saw immediate cost advantages due to the FTA [free trade agreement].

As gold prices remain high, alternative metals and creative adaptations emerged across collections. “I saw a lot of silverplated jewellery and super lightweight 14ct gold pieces,” Ladwa noted. “It makes me nervous as a retailer – the quality seems compromised.”

Designers like Frédéric Duclos turned that challenge into opportunity, however, drawing attention with sterling silver appliqué jewellery.

Laboratory-grown diamond brand Smiling Rocks debuted its sculptural Bold collection, while its colourful Flora and playful Espresso lines targeted younger consumers. In bridal, its Asscher cuts in prong and bezel settings were trending.

“We think the US is having a very good season. There is a positive sentiment at the JCK show. Our clients and retailers are still buying and are not perturbed by the tariffs,” said chief executive Zulu Ghevriya. At the show, the brand also highlighted a commitment to wildlife protection through a partnership with conservation charity Space for Giants.

Laboratory-grown diamonds were, once again, a hot topic, especially following the Gemological Institute of America (GIA)’s announcement that it will phase out its traditional 4Cs grading system for laboratory grown stones in favour of simplified classifications. From September 2025, it will label laboratory-grown diamonds as ‘premium’ or ‘standard’. Those that fall below these quality thresholds will not be graded. Ladwa said the move was broadly welcomed among fellow retailers, helping consumers better understand quality distinctions.

Fine jewellery manufacturer Nelson Jewellery echoed this sentiment, noting that in both the US and UK, laboratorygrown diamonds are becoming mainstream, though US buyers continue to push demand. The business reported seeing a slight scaling back in the US to 2ct and 3ct stones, possibly due to the rising cost of gold. It also noted that influencer-driven trends have a greater impact in the US than in the UK.

Diamond subscription service Dialog reported strong interest in its laboratorygrown diamond offering and marked a successful showing at JCK. However, the team saw a noticeable absence of UK retailers, which they attributed to the impact of tariffs. A key development for the brand was the introduction of its first designer collaboration with fine jewellery designer Karen Suen. She has joined forces with Dialog to expand her Dream to Galaxy collection, adding more commercially focused star-inspired pieces to her portfolio.

New bridal trends were evident across the show, with brands like Stuller highlighting low-profile eternity bands, chunky ‘more is more’ styles, and two-tone and hidden halo engagement rings with elongated centre stones. Meanwhile, manly motifs and styling stacks gained traction as couples sought more expressive options.

Education and innovation were at the forefront of the show’s seminar programme, with sessions exploring consumer trends, responsible sourcing and crime prevention. The International Gemological Institute (IGI) ran hands-on demonstrations, including sessions on laboratory-grown diamond detection and light performance analysis.

Also on the education schedule was the highly anticipated Rapaport breakfast, where De Beers chief executive Al Cook joined chairman of the Rapaport Group Martin Rapaport for a candid conversation on global trade, ethics and the future of the diamond industry. Rapaport stressed the need for trust and transparency in the diamond trade, and taking a firm stance in the natural vs laboratory-grown diamond debate, commenting: “Synthetic diamonds do not appreciate in value like natural diamonds because they can be created in unlimited quantities and are not subject to the same supply limitations as natural diamonds.”

Despite ongoing global tensions, JCK Las Vegas 2025 stood out for its exceptional collections and forward thinking educational programme. First-time Luxury exhibitor WOLF echoed the general sentiment. “There’s such a buzz and high footfall here,” said chief executive Simon Wolf. “It’s undeniable – we’ll definitely be back.”

Couture 2025: A premier show

On crossing the sweltering Strip from JCK to the Couture show, visitors were met with a global gathering of top designers, heritage houses and influential buyers, all convening at the luxurious Wynn hotel from 4 to 8 June.

Among the standout exhibitors was Nada Ghazal, whose designs layered precious stones beneath mesh and reimagined the evil eye as a “healing eye”. Despite rising gold prices and tariffs, her Lebanon-based brand has seen continued growth, including the upcoming launch of its first UK store on London’s Bond Street.

Oscar Heyman impressed with pieces featuring velvety black opals and star sapphires crafted in its in-house lapidary. Gurhan’s richly textured 24ct gold pieces – particularly one-of-akind opal designs – were in demand, while Verragio channelled regal romance with a Princess Dianainspired Grove collection of quilted textures and delicate bows.

Jade Trau’s Sofia line offered a contemporary take on luxury with yellow gold charms and modern chain necklaces.

LÖF founder Morgan Mackintosh drew inspiration from architectural textures, with standout pieces like the Tallulah earrings and Valentine ring exploring negative space.

In watches, Bulova marked its 150th anniversary with Art Decoinspired pieces and collaborative launches, such as the Shelby Racing Chronograph and Lunar Pilot x Budii, a tie-in with Brazilian pop artist Thiago Rosinhole.

The luxury week culminated in the Couture Design Awards on 7 June. Some of the standout winners were Busatti 1947, which won Best in Diamonds Above $40K for its diamond-covered orchid pendant, and Robinson Pelham, which took Editor’s Choice for its reimagined Identity necklace, a genderless design refreshed with a diamond-set pommel.

As ever, Couture confirmed its status as a must-attend event.

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